Now, there are those who believe, today, that a waistcoat is nothing more than a mere bagatelle in the arsenal of a gentleman’s wardrobe. A thing to be trotted out with morning dress for weddings, with tails to achieve appropriate white-tie-ness, and even, should one be of a foppish disposition, with a dinner jacket. Of course, should one ride to hounds, one may also sport a natty windowpane check with the hunting pink.
But if this is your narrow definition of a waistcoat’s virtues, then I hesitate to mention it, but you are a Philistine. A Visigoth. A mere dabbler in the higher realms of sartorial elegance.
In the early part of the 19th century, a gentleman’s waistcoat performed a number of essential functions.
First off is warmth. The houses were dashed cold and routinely damp. Thus, in the colder months or the colder houses for that matter, one might wear two waistcoats, one of them quilted and perhaps lined with wool wadding.
Second, there is of course, protection of clothes. A buckskin waistcoat offered a groom or farrier, for instance, both the wind-breaking qualities of a sheepskin coat, but like full chaps, kept his clothes clean of the grime associated with his daily work.
And then there is–in this age when dandyism is a macho pursuit–elegance.
For this is an era too when the ideals of classical culture and erudition have taken hold of the educated thought. The beauties of classical sculpture are on display in the form of the Elgin marbles, lately ‘liberated’ from their native soil of Athens and on display in London.
And there are the other Greek and Roman statues, also, er, ‘liberated’…the which countless young men have brought back from their travels on the Continent (before Napoleon so rudely put an end to this delightful and educational pastime with his incessant wars…) And all of them on display in homes and gardens across the country.
So, put this through the synthesising genius of someone like Mr. George Brummell and what do you have? You have a new fashion in waistcoats. A new statement of manly beauty and understated strength.
For in this new era of fashion you see waistcoats as a refining feature. The idea being that when a gentlemen is seen from a distance without his coat, in his tight pale breeches and pale form-fitting waistcoat, he will resemble the muscular form of some naked Greek or Roman deity carved in marble.
The colours of choice are thus pale–for both waistcoats and breeches. Buff, light grey, fawn, off-white, tan, pale drab–anything that replicates the colours found in classical statuary. And if there is interest to be added to this classically imaged garment, it may be in the weave. Or the patterning will be subtle (like the copper engraved silk, above left), and if it’s brighter it will be upon a pale background.
Of course, this sartorial pallor also advertises another fact–that you can afford to soil your clothes and have them laundered. Thus it is a subtle proclamation of wealth.
But above all, its purpose is to elevate–in the eye of the beholder–the masculine form to resemble that of the gods.
M.M. Bennetts 
Fascinating description of this men’s basic 🙂 I am always amazed by the artistry of earlier waistcoats–the embroidered wonders of the eighteenth century. To think some beleive women had the market cornered on self-adornment! But these more refined models are lovely in their own way, too. Adore seeing the motivations behind fashions. Thanks!
I never go anywhere without mine. A choice of steely grey or olive green.
And your resemblance to a naked Greek god never fails to impress the onlooker neither.
From my singular lack of success in finding a suitable garment to wear with my gold hunter over the summer, it seems waistcoats have gone out of fashion somewhat. Just my luck.
Ebay beckons.
I know several equestrian shops and gentlemen’s outfitters who do fine lines in waistcoats. Not copperplate engraved silk, perhaps…though I have an excellent embroidered silk, myself.
As yes, but you forget what a cheapskate penny-pincher I am.
Embroidered silk? S’pose I might manage a handkerchief – make a change from recycled bedsheet.
I am joking – we use those for stable rubbers.
I have a bootful of recycled towels for the same reason. And very grateful I have been for them on many a wet occasion.
Towels ? And worsted. Mum’s old drawers even better for stable work. Ask me mum. But wet occasions . . good grief, Bennsy, isn’t the footman on duty with parasols and umbrellas for such importunities ? I have had to speak to him about it before, and such lack of discipline cannot go un . . . disciplined . . hem. Withodraw the fellow’s ration of fondants for a week at least.
If I admitted that I have been known to strip off to my vest and dry the beloved creature [horse] with my own clothes, would you be horrified? Or would you recognise in me the spirit of those cavalry officers who on the night before Waterloo, slept standing between their horses, to keep them warm and calm?
And I rarely share my fondants. And when I say rarely, I mean almost never. And when I say almost never, I really mean, ‘not on your life…’